There is a goanna in the small cupboard in this community room. Marilyn has gone to find someone to get it out! This room is cooler that the van, and it's a good time to do some email reading and writing. We are now waiting for one of the men to arrive back from work.
The temp has been up to 35 degrees in the van with the fan on. Last night was hot. Sheet only weather. This morning was banana picking day - a couple of men cut them down, then they are cut off the bunch and washed, by the ladies, we also have then to dip the stalk into anti fungal solution. So they are now packed in the cool room. They are for sale to passing traffic and sometimes at the market in town. Lovely sweet naturally ripened.
The goanna (a lively small one) has been removed and is now climbing a tree outside (near the caravans!) How he got in here I don't know. He'd got stuck in a cupboard used for sound equipment. May be after spiders. He probably liked the cool place.
Roger has had a hot day out on the back property with others. They will be back soon, dirty and tired and in need of a cool drink. Maybe he will add some photos.
Now a day has passed since writing the above. Roger has continued to work on tower preparation. The temp as been 36 deg and humid. I sold some bananas, did some washing, helped pick vegetables to share, helped wash down some walls. Then this afternoon did the drive to town to do the shopping - all by myself feeling almost a local. I even got home without being bothered by the peak hour!
My (Roger) day in the office was out in the hot sun helping to put together this giant meccano set which was purchased from the Bosnian Army and delivered in two 40 foot containers together with manuals and parts list. All parts are predrilled and ready to assemble in accordance to hundreds of drawings that were done by the original American manufacturer. This is a very physical and hot work but immensely satisfying when something fits together and is finished.
We have had a few days without access to internet since arriving here, where our wireless is no use. So it seemed rather difficult, since the computer is also a little out of date. Today with some advice from a young man here during uni vacation from US, we found that there is a place here in the common room (Oasis) where we can plug in. So we are off again on this interesting story!
Sunday was also a busy day. We went to Anglican/Uniting with Mary and Howard J, which was refreshing, lots of young families and of course (at this time of year) some travelling nomads, mostly grey. The assistant (fyi Trine) is a previous associate of Carolyn & Roger at Lithgow, so it was good to talk to him about their work in KN. We then went with M and H for coffee and lunch at one of the pleasant cafes just outside the town on one of the farms. We sat in the shade of Mango trees.
Back at HCJB (which is no more than 7 ks out of town to the west, just over the diversion dam) we had time to catch up a little and then gathered with about 20 or so others to have a tour of the property. Tours are offered every Sunday afternoon at 3. Though we had done this 4 years ago, we'd forgotten much of that, and this is now developing rapidly. A talk, a look at the transmission room and observing the towers that have been in operation for some years, then a drive 'out the back' to the second property (leased) where new buildings have been constructed in prep for more transmission units, and where many more towers and curtains are being constructed.
Monday morning was the start of the working week. I should have been up early enough to photograph the men leaving at 6 a.m. Actually if we go to bed early enough it's not so hard. Roger enjoyed his first day, sorting components (in the shed) with Howard. He wasn't outside in the heat too much today. They all come back in a couple of trucks for morning tea and talk and encouragement for all of staff, volunteers to attend at 9.30. They go back to work about 10am and then lunch is 12 till 2pm, but maybe a little less. Work is finished about 4 pm when back the trucks come.
I did my share of morning tea this morning by baking 2 (packet) sultana loaves (Sunday night). I'm rostered for Monday so got my first one out of the way. I found some difficulty getting the oven in the communal kitchen working, but got it going after a few tries, and then found it difficult to turn off later and had to recruit help. I was also later shown the banana selling procedures by Mary, and later in the day sold my first 2 kgs of bananas! We had to sort the ripening from the over-ripe, and from the very green. They are really nice to eat, though that has it's limits. How many should be the limit in any one day? There are a few paw paws and bales of hay for sale. There is also a vegetable garden with produce available to staff and vols - lettuce, tomatoes, beans, pumpkin. Things grow well, plenty of water.
We have a constant problem with ants. They are waiting for people to set up camp, and then climb rapidly to find out what tasty morsel they can. I have some lined up drinking water at present from a plate, with a bowl, and a container of (leftover) cake balancing on top.
We left our pleasant surrounds in Shady Lane Katherine and started the journey to Timber Creek. Before leaving we had a browse through the camping shop and then stopped at a gallery of Aboriginal art, where we purchased a small painting and some postcards (lots of lovely paintings at a not for profit shop). The road across to Timber Creek is undulating and interesting. Lunch at Victoria River Roadhouse area was in beautiful scenery of red rock ranges. The dust outside the van was red too, which soon spread inside. Some vehicles arrive at these places with the badge of honour of red dust over them. We don’t look too bad, as we’ve been on the bitumen. Now at Timber Creek, we’ve been for a walk and are in one of two competing caravan parks. It a very small community, mostly aboriginal probably, near the VictoriaRiver which we’ve heard is the longest river in the Northern Territory. Last time through here we went on a sunset cruise along the river – very remote.
Timber Creek to Kununurra Friday 23rd July 2010
Timber Creek is a pleasant place, the caravan park is beside the little Timber Creek, which has lots of birds, (making a noise), pandanus palms, paperbark, freshwater crocodiles (didn’t see one) and water, ie not dry and many creeks are at this time of year. We left a few veges and fruit with the little travel shop for use at the school, to give the children (mostly aboriginal) a nutritious lunch, and to avoid having them to throw away at the border. We spent half an hour at the Museum Police Station on way out of this scattered place. There is even a medical clinic – good to know if needed.
We travelled through more savannah grass land and scattered trees. Now we are seeing more boab trees here and there. Some small, others very old and gnarled – of course by the road many have had initials and words carved in them over the years. They sometimes stand in family groups. Their hands (many) are stretched up. They are deciduous and just now do not have leaves. Over the last week we have seen many termite mounds in colours (depending on the clay) from pale beige colour to brown to red. They stand looking like people frozen in time, some very thin, some again in family groups, sometimes a fat man, or mother and child. I wonder if they move when we are not looking!
Rest area for morning tea, another for lunch – but always with a number of other travellers, some even setting up to stay for a day (or two) and then we were at the NT/WA border and having to have the car and caravan inspected for fruit, honey, veges. We were very confident there was nothing – however the inspector spied Roger’s Very old cardboard carton which still had pictures of oranges on it – that had to go. He did give him another to put all the things in it (that you just might need) – ropes, water, rags, bits of old rubber tyre, plastic bags, a piece of sea sponge from Scotts Head, and much more that should have been sorted a long time ago.
So here we are at HCJB Kununurra. We’ve pulled up in a temp spot for tonight and will take another site tomorrow when someone else leaves. We stopped in town to get a bit more information at the busy Info Centre, then bought a few groceries before coming here about 5 ks out of town. The night is cooling down, was warm during the day. My head is spinning with what things take place – I’ll be put on rosters to do various things, one already is preparing something for morning tea (2 others on same day) one day a week for about 40 people. It so happens the first will be Monday! Normally that is not a problem. However in a little caravan with minimal ingredients it is a challenge. I can however use the communal kitchen and produce/buy/cut up something- just have to shop again. There is a market tomorrow morning, so I’ll go to that for a start. We won’t officially start work till Monday – somewhere before then we have to go through an induction talk.
Kununurra Saturday July 24th 2010
A good sleep in a pleasant shady temporary place was enjoyed. We woke early, with the now 1 ½ hours still to spare. Dawn by 5.30 and daylight by 6 a.m. here. Left our van ready to move to its permanent site and at about 8 a.m. we went off to see the Saturday market in town. We stocked up on some more fruit and vegetables, came back to HCJB and moved the van. It’s a shady spot, dusty (red), and gets the late afternoon sun. We had our official induction into procedures here for about an hour, then had some more time to put the annex in place, before heading out with most of the team to ‘flying fox’ for an evening picnic. This is about 15 ks. ‘up the back’ from here to a rocky river bed with a large waterhole. A big fire was prepared, the billy boiled, sausages cooked over coals which we ate with our own food, followed by dessert of syrup dumplings, cooked over the coals in ‘camp ovens’. A lovely warm evening with full moon, some cloud. There were also some fun items by some folk and the children which were fun. Then at the end a time of singing and reflection under the stars. Before leaving and chatting some more, some of us followed the men with a torch or two to spot crocodile eyes. There would be fresh water crocs here, and maybe even salties who’ve moved up stream in the wet. Now we’re back home, still trying to get things straight.
At 6.15 a.m. we turned the car in the direction of Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) and as the sun rose drove to get to our breakfast cruise. It was still half dark as we arrived with some problem finding the correct car park. It was a beautiful place to visit at that time of day, even if a bit cold (17 degrees). We enjoyed not only a nice breakfast as we cruised along the first gorge, but the beautiful scenery. Towering cliffs on both sides. At the end of the first gorge we get off that boat and walk on a pathway to the second gorge where other boats are moored and then travel further, with more amazing scenery. It is possible to do a longer trip and see a third gorge (there are 8 or more altogether). There are some photos to follow.
Before we left the area after leaving the boat we climbed a pathway to see the view from up high above the first gorge. Steep. That was also amazing and another angle on the whole area. We took some extra time to have a look at the visitors centre as well. We had a short visit to an art gallery on the way back to Shady Lane Van Park (which is on the road to K Gorge). It was nice to have lunch back at our special spot in the park and a rest for a short while.
We did a town tour (our own) and saw the Art Gallery Collection at the Civic Centre, Low Level bridge, the Ghan standing in the railway station west of town (what a long train about 25 carriages) while the passengers were probably doing a tour, or cruise, checked out the hot springs where you can swim (we didn't this time), walked on the old railway bridge, had a walk along the main street, and had some coffee, then on to Knotts Crossing which was the first crossing of the Katherine River now destroyed by past floods shown below, before coming back to get some dinner ready.
We've only 2 days to travel now before we arrive at Kununurra and what is in store for us there.
An early swim in the warm springs at Mataranka was a good start for the day. It takes only an hour or so to drive to Katherine. We stopped briefly to have morning tea, and arrived here at Shady Lane Resort/Caravan Park, which is on the road to Nitmiluk (K Gorge). (As I write this there is a doco on Hong Kong on ABC TV - just think we were there a few weeks ago - what a contrast!) We went off to Woolworths after parking the van and stocked up on a few groceries, taking care not to have any fresh fruit or veges left when we cross into WA. Interesting that there were a lot of older couples doing the same and wearing shorts and t shirts and sandals, some looked familiar as we'd probably seen them somewhere along the way. The park is lovely and we have a very private spot, which feels like our very own apartment. So after a late lunch we stayed around and didn't do much. Took a short walk out the back to the K River and saw shy wallabies in the late afternoon.
We had a cool night again last night in Mt Isa. Winter is cool, particularly at night, in these parts. We left Mt Isa at about 9a.m., which was about as early as we can do it. We were heading west and north today. The scenery for a while was ranges, coloured rocks and shrubs and trees, then gradually the scene became flat grasslands again. We again saw a sign to tell us we were again in the Lake EyreBasin catchment, but of course it was too late to take a photo. The Mt Isa area is on the other side of a range and therefore the river there flows to the north and to the gulf.
Morning Tea at 11a.m. was in Camooweal. We parked and enjoyed a cuppa, then filled up with fuel, and also had a short look at the historic shop, which is now closed, and then at a mural of horses being driven from Camooweal to Adelaide in the 1930’s depression. We drove around the block, and noted a school and police station. There is of course the old pub, a post office/general store, and 2 pleasant looking caravan parks. A good place to stop before tackling the Barkly Tablelands.
We decided to continue on, planning to get the the Barkly H’stead over the NT border where the speed limit is 130kph. We stopped for lunch at the Avon Downs Rest Area. We had stayed the night here in this free camp in 2006. It seems to be have been enlarged and a new windy loo has been installed. There were a few shrubs to park near and a creek with a few waterholes nearby.
The scenery is flat grasslands as far as the eye can see on this first part of the journey. The traffic consists of caravan/motor home/campers, and road trains. Just a few individual travellers as well.
We have continued till the Barkly Homestead, which has caravan parking with power, and is well covered in vans, and campers, etc. I am finding it difficult to open the bathroom doors with the key provided ($10 deposit). We’ve had dinner, and after writing this will go to bed early, and we’re half and hour earlier anyway. We need to keep that body clock the same so that starting work/activities at Knx at 6 a.m. won’t seem so hard.
Barkly Homestead to BankaBanka Station - Saturday 17 July 2010
The time is moving on. It was chilly this morning at Barkly Homestead. We slept well in spite of the generator sound all night, which is how the place has its electricity. We had a powered site. The car had to have fuel at $1.89 per litre. The road continues on straight almost westward to Threeways, the intersection with Stuart Highway. The scenery is more native shrubs and small trees, and wattle almost in bloom. We saw some grevillias when stopped for morning tea. We havn’t changed the clock yet, so still have ½ hour to spare. We also wonder as we travel, just where it was we broke down in a coach tour in 1987. That is another story. Peter should remember.
We turned north at Threeways, bought petrol again at the corner, $1.69 this time, and then travelled north. It was not far to stop for lunch at the Stuart Memorial Rest Area. No doubt a lot of people stop here overnight. There is a toilet (windy-loo). We noted a van parked and staying a while, with solar panels, satellite dish, shower tent and a Eureka Stockade flag (I wonder about that). Others often will have petrol generators. We enjoyed our standard lunch of some salad and bread rolls (stale) and water.
We then continued about 30 ks to Banka Banka Station caravan park, arriving about 1.30pm. Early for us. There were others here already, we have a pleasant site in shade no power,phone,internet,tv or radio. Took some backing and filling to decide the position! Then after all that the van was lopsided, the block we’d put under one wheel was too high. So, rather than moving off that again, Roger jacked it up, and then put a smaller piece under. Somehow the levelling at the front did not agree with inside the van. I think we’ll have a level sleep. There was time to enjoy the area, with a walk up the hill and along some way amongst red rocks, with amazing view over the wide, wide country side. After a sumptuous dinner of some chicken and vegetable stir fried in the pan, with pasta carbonara (thanks to San Remo), we joined others to see a slide presentation and talk about the history of this property. So to bed. The stars are brilliant.
BankaBanka Station to Dunmarra – Sunday 18 July 2010
The morning is cool, but soon the day is warm to hot. We stopped off at Newcastle Waters historic village, a few ks off the highway. There was much bird life on the lagoon in the creek. It was interesting again to see a few old buildings, including the old AIM church.
We needed to fill up again with petrol at Elliot, the town where we had stayed on our last trip, and where we had tyres repaired on the caravan. We had our morning tea here this time, and then moved on northwards.
We’ve been at Dunmarra since about 1 p.m., so were early to get a site, though it is now full with caravans and campers. We are surrounded by big (very big) caravans, and feel a bit inferior. The neighbours have just been using their shower, and have not put a drainage hose on! We’re still out of mobile phone and internet range. We joined in the ‘happy hour’ at the bar where we did not win a $20 refund on the camping fee, and did not therefore get to delve into the lucky dip, which was a very large python! We sat later under the stars and watched a movie, and ate our barra burger and chips. It was good to sit in the shade and relax and read for a little while in the afternoon, also to have a cold swim in the pool, and then have a walk along the back of the area here. The main business is the ‘wayside inn’, but it is also a working cattle station.
Dunmarra to Mataranka Monday 190710
The days are hot now 35 degC today, though nights cool down to about15 degC or so. The distance we travelled was about 200 ks., taking a short look at Daly Waters a few ks off the highway, and later stopping at Larrimah. Larrimah consists mainly of derelict memorabilia, and an hotel which has a free zoo. Mostly birds in large untidy aviaries, but nevertheless a wonderful variety.
We’re now staying at night at Mataranka Springs, where we’ve enjoyed a swim in the warm spring water which flows constantly. On arrival I noticed the offer of a watercolour class for 2 hours for $25. After lunch I joined another woman and the teacher and we had an enjoyable 1 ½ hours learning a few watercolour techniques with the chance of finishing the picture. Velda the teacher went off for a few minutes to get another 2 copies of the postcard we were using as the subject, and apparently chatted with a staff member and tripped over a notice board onto her face. She came back with someone to help her, but they insisted that she go and lie down. So I have an unfinished masterpiece!! The trees and shrubs are still to come and highlights to various parts. She wasn’t able to finish the class today, will continue tomorrow, but we will be gone. Maybe there’ll be another class somewhere else. I am sorry I didn’t get to do one in Bourke, which was offered for an hour or so in pastels, but found out too late. Another unexpected and interesting thing to do if the opportunity arises.
Well, we were not mining, but rather having a relaxed day as a rest from big distances. Mt Isa is busy compared to small towns we've been through so far. However you can still walk across the main road one side at a time with plenty of breaks in the traffic. We went on the mine surface tour in a coach, staying on board all the time. We had to wear covered shoes in case there was some problem and we were to get off. It was an extensive tour taking about 2 hours. We're told lots of facts and figures, and it's hard to take it all in.
Silver, lead, copper and zinc are mined here. A by-product is sulphuric acid (3,000 litres per day). The huge trucks used to move ore are driven mostly by young women (they are more careful). The mine is mostly underground going down to a depth of around 2 kms. Of course we didn't see that. There is an old open cut mine that is going to be reactivated soon and will be extended, meaning existing buildings and car parks will be moved and made 3 times deeper than now. We were driven along and around and over various roads through the area. Another mine west of here some distance, also supplies ore, brought by road trains on a dedicated road, also more coming in from mine near Cloncurry by rail and road. The mine dominates the view of the town and from it. However there is a division and the mine remains on one side of the area and a green area is being developed between. It is all gas powered, coming by pipe from Moomba in South Aust. The rocks underground are 60 degrees, so they super cool the tunnels with cooled air to 22 degrees.
So we learnt some facts today. Mining brings employment and is why Mt Isa is here. Underground workers can earn up to $160,000 p.a., it's all good money for a while, but not attractive work.
As a change I walked across the road after the tour which finished at the visitor centre, to check out the patchwork shop! I heard about this from a woman who chatted through the shower walls this morning asking if anyone was a quilter! I actually never saw her, but we had a conversation for a few minutes.
Dinner tonight was a sort of vegetable/bacon/egg omelette on toast (which we just make on the gas cook top - gas toast), followed by pear and banana dessert.
Tomorrow morning we set off to travel the Barkly Tablelands and will be out of contact for a few days.
